Lead Remover &
Birchwood Casey tells us:
Quickly removes leading, burn rings, carbon residue including
copper and plastic fouling, rust and tarnish. Great for
use on handguns, rifles, shotguns and muzzleloaders.
Excellent for stainless steel, nickel, most metal
surfaces, wood, glass, plastic and porcelain. Can be cut
to size for removing unwanted residue inside the chamber,
cylinder, forcing cone, bore and choke. Also ideal for
other sporting equipment and home/auto use. "
I have used
this product with great success on revolvers, rifles, and the
Thompson Contender. I use lots of cast bullets and
frequently need to remove lead fouling.
are the most trouble because led fouling is deposited in
the barrel, the forcing cone, the top strap, and sometimes
in the cylinder.
sure to use a tight fitting jag and cut a patch
to fit very tightly. This depends on friction to
strip out the leading and will not work if it is
just loosely pushed through the bore.
Be careful using on the outside of the
firearm. If used to excess, this stuff will
remove the blueing.
Hoppe's Elite Bore Gel
This is the same formula as Hoppe's Elite
solvent but in a thicker formulation. It clings
to the bore.
HOPPE'S TELLS US:
This special blend of
cleaning agents, corrosion inhibitors and
surface treatments safely penetrates the pores
of metal to clean all types of fouling and
powder residue. Hoppe's Elite also conditions
the barrel to repel additional fouling, provides
a powerful lubricant and can cut your cleaning
time by up to 80%. Hoppe's Elite is approved
safe by all major gun manufacturers and exceeds
both EPA and MILSPEC requirements.
I find this to be a very effective bore
cleaner for lead removal. I apply it liberally
with a loose fitting bore mop then let it set
for 20 - 30 minutes. After that, wrap some 000
or 0000 bronze wool around a worn out bronze
cleaning brush and scrub diligently for ten or
so strokes, Then repeat. Normal cleaning should
not take more than two applications. Really bad
leading may take more. REMEMBER. You need to let
the solvent set for at least ten minutes in the
bore before scrubbing.
Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber Foaming Gel Bore
Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber
Foaming Gel 2-in-1 Bore Cleaner quickly, easily and
safely removes all types of fouling - carbon, powder,
copper, lead and plastic wad residue. This bore cleaner
contains no highly toxic ingredients and is safe for use
on steel. Solvent clings to and penetrates neglected or
fouled bores. Great for rifles, shotguns and handguns.
This stuff is nasty. It removes both copper and lead
about equally well. It is very easy to apply to the bore
with no tools because the supplied applicator tube can
be inserted directly into the bore and the gel will
under pressure foam along the entire length of the bore.
m Unfortunately, it doesn't stop there. It foams out the
back end and the front end. You push it out with your
cleaning brush. It gets all over everything. It makes a
mess on your table. When I use it, ( and I do use
it ), I always cover the table top with a double layer
of paper towels.
After leting it soak for 20 minutes or more, I wrap
some 000 or 0000 bronze wool around a worn out bronze
cleaning brush and scrub diligently for ten or so
strokes, Then repeat. Normal cleaning should not take
more than two applications. Really bad leading may take
more. REMEMBER. You need to let the solvent set for at
least ten minutes in the bore before scrubbing.
Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil and Bore Cleaning
Kano tells us:
Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil
and Bore Cleaning Solvent is the oil that
creeps. Kroil is used by the most
accuracy-obsessed benchrest shooters to keep their
barrels clean. Kroil creeps below the fouling
in your barrel, allowing you to knock it out easily with
a patch or brush. For best results when working with
rusted or frozen gun parts, allow 24 hours for Kroil
They also say tight on the face of
"FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY, NOT FOR
Penetrating Oil and Bore Cleaning Solvent
Container: Metal Canister
Removes Carbon Fouling: Yes
Removes Lead Fouling: Yes
Removes Copper Fouling: Yes
Can be use after moly-coated bullets: Yes
Displaces Moisture: Yes
Prevents Rust: Yes
This product gets rave reviews on the reloading
forums. It is the equivalent of the old west "Snake Oil"
It is claimed to cure anything that ails your
* Interestingly, although Midway USA advertises this
product as a bore solvent and cleaning product, The
manufacturer makes no such claim. Brownell's
states it will penetrate under carbon, copper, and lead
fouling and help to remove them.
FYI, If you are going to buy it, you can order it
from kanolabs.com cheaper than from the shooting
Does it work? Yes.
Is it "Magic"? No.
It does an adequate job of removing bore fouling,
including lead but it is not instant. It needs 20 to 30
minutes to work just like all the other solvents.
It takes slightly more work and a few more applications
than say Hoppe's Elite or Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber
If you have it, use it. If you don't have it, don't
buy it as a bore cleaner.
Just for grins, I thought "This stuff does work. If
it works by penetrating under the fouling and loosening
it that way, then any good penetrating oil should do the
I thought that WD-40 is arguably the most famous
penetrating oil on the market and everyone already has a
can of it. Why not try it. After the next trip to
the range with some ammo known to lead badly, I started
by spraying the WD-40 into the bore and saturating it
from end to end, just like I would do with any lead
removal product. After a 20 minute wait, I proceeded
with my normal cleaning routine and found that it worked
exactly as well as, but no better than Kroil.
World's Best Bore Leading Removal Tool
to Expand Images
Take a worn out bronze bore brush. You want it worn
out because you are going to ruin it and you don't care
if it fits tight. Take a pinch of bronze wool. Pull it
apart and stretch it until the fibers are only loosely
connected. Wrap it around the brush in a spiral pattern
until the brush is completely covered from end to end.
If the brush is worn so much that it fits loosely in the
bore, keep wrapping bronze wool until it will not enter
the bore by finger pressure.
Now put the brush on the end of a short rod, As short
as possible because you are going to be applying lots of
pressure and you don't want it to bend. Using the rod,
force the brush into the bore from the breach end if
possible but for revolvers you will have to force it
into the muzzle. The first time you use it, it should
"shave" some of the bronze wool off and leave it behind.
If it does not, you don't have enough bronze wool.
Occasionally you will wrap so much you just cannot get
it to enter the bore. When that happens, unwind a little
of it and try again. The final fit should be tight
enough that it requires significant force to push it
through the bore.
Although this is very effective, you should use it in
conjunction with lead removing solvents, not insteae of.
Firing Jacketed Ammo
Fire several rounds of jacketed ammo.
When I first heard this, I thought "Oh my God" nothing
could be worse than firing jacked bullets through a lead
fouled barrel. All that will do will iron in on and
make it stick tighter and be harder to remove. This was
one of those self evident truths that I just 'knew" to be
true. Well these self evident obvious truths frequently
aren't. This this turned out to be one of those times.
I have a Thompson Center .38 Special / .357 Magnum.
This thing has about a three quarter inch section of sewer
pipe for a forcing cone. It is very rough and leads very
badly. This would be a perfect test gun.
with a clean barrel, I fired 50 rounds of hot .38 special.
( Not as hot as +P loads. ) This left about one and one
half inches of severely leaded lands and groves in
front of the forcing cone. This was fired into 5 ten shot
groups at 50 yards, the first was about 3 inches and they
progressively got larger. The last one was over 7 inches.
This experiment was followed by two five shot groups using
Winchester Super X 130 gr. FMJ ammo at the same range. The
first group went into about 6 inches. The second was about
2.5 inches. Something unexpected is happening here.
I looked through the bore again and saw nothing but
some powder fouling. I passed two ( very tight fitting )
clean dry patches through the bore and it looked
completely clean! I could see no leading and no lead
appeared on the patches.
A couple of passes were
made with the Birchwood Casey Lead Remover Cloth. As
expected, it did pick up some lead but only tiny
particles. This bore was essentially free of leading.
Later that day, after several test groups with other
lead bullets, when the groups began to open up, I decided
to try it again but one shot at a time. Just how many
rounds of jacketed ammo would it take to perform this
task. I fired one round and passed two ( very tight
fitting ) patches. I could see no difference at all in the
lead. After round two and two more clean dry patches, I
did notice a significant decrease in the amount of visible
lead. After the third round and two m ore dry patches, it
was visually as clean as after the two five round groups.
The same day I repeated the experiment with a modestly
leaded 9mm Kimber and got the same result. After five
rounds this barrel showed no visible leading.